Plein Air Painting in India
March 13, 2020 - 12:37 pm
Sitting in the Heathrow airport in London, waiting for my last flight home during the world pandemic of Coronavirus, enjoying my plate of food and drink- A stark change from my monastic, simple food of potato or lentil soup and roti in India - Watching everyone laughing, enjoying each other's company and reading about the virus, and how it affects them in their state or country. On this day the general consensus of the international travelers thinks that this is the most ridiculous world panic that has ever happened. I am just observing everyone's behavior and glad to see laughter, communion and more "westerners". I am not feeling any personal panic- but relief that I will make it home to the United States after my art residency.
April 25, 2020
That was my last journal entry from my Haridwar, India Art Residency that was cut short due to COVID-19. On that day, it was the 2nd day of the 60 plus hours it took to get home. First day was spent finding a flight home, (I got the last seat on the plane thanks to my friend Kitty who stayed up all night finding it), spent the night in New Delhi airport, then on a plane to London, where I spent the night in a hotel there, and in that cafe, where I made the journal entry, I was waiting for a plane to Atlanta. And it was before the REAL pandemic was about to hit, hence everyone's apparent thoughts.
But the Plein Air and travel experience was the best of times and worst of times when I reflect. There are challenges painting in a place like India, and especially if you are woman, we seem to always be challenged....like teabags - you never know how strong you are until you're in hot water (quote from Eleanor Roosevelt)
SITUATIONS:
In Haridwar,India-I was the only "westerner" in the area, female, blond and blue-eyes-and it didn't matter that I was 52, I was a spectacle. If you want to practice being conscious and mindful- this is a great place to go-if you are a westerner, (particularly female) because you have no choice. Everyday was a multi-tasking, consciously aware life the moment you stepped out of the house. Also, no one is speaking your language. Trying to paint Plein Air in this type of environment was-let's say at the least- CHALLENGING. Out of 7.5 billion people on this planet- India holds 1.38 billion,a close 2nd highest to China, where as United states is 3rd largest country at ONLY 331 Million. Despite these stats, I have never lived in a city. Here I was a country girl living on 34 acres, in a town of 100 people, thrown into a mass of people; I was really like a fish out of water.
PACKING & PAINTING for INDIA:
I planned my trip to have one suitcase with my paints, plein air box, and other art supplies, and one for mainly clothes and canvas. I cut up several sizes- mainly 11"x14" linen canvas to tape to board for a lighter and easier packing. I printed off all the MSDS paperwork for my paint, and several pages of I AM AN ARTIST- THESE ARE ARTIST COLORS. Even with this, I was called at two different locations underground to the farthest part of Indian airports to open my bag, making sure it wasn't a bomb. ( This long walk, there is always a question in your mind - Is this where I will be adbucted and never heard of again?-you just can't help it!) I also had t o prepare how I would clean my paint there, I read about using vegetable oil for a final clean and safflower oil to clean brushes in while painting. Hesitatingly, I practiced before I left. It worked, and this type of oil is effective for toxic free cleaning, but the drying time seems slower. I thought out how I was going to stop painting days before leaving, or plan on leaving some there based on whether they were dry or not. Because there is no air conditioning, the paintings took several more days to dry there then at home. about 5-7 days, I also paint thickly. So after my first several paintings, I decided not to be so generous with my paint, because of the long drying time.
TRAVELING ALONE & FEMALE:
Before I left home, I was reading everything I could on a female, traveling alone in India. The first thing everyone said was "keep a low profile". Low for me is good, I am 5'2". But blonde and white...which I discovered doesn't fall int0 " low profile".
I did dress conservatively and even a little Indian. But people were snapping selfies with me, and making sure I was somewhere in their photo-(is that reverse photo bombing?) I had a personal guide/yoga teacher(and personal protector-Tarun) that took me out, (Thank God - keep reading), to places that might interest me to paint. Which were quite populated areas! He had to explain to me why he had to guide me to keep people, monkeys, and other animals from invading my space, and I had to explain to him about light and shadows and what might be attractive to some, might not be attractive to a painter. He seemed to understand and he really was my protection from crowds, monkeys, and other possibly dangerous situations-I was thankful he was there or I would not have plein air painted! Tarun was very patient with me and stern with the crowd-which was distracting and right on your back, and keeping me from those zen moments I need to plein air paint. I became more of a performance artist for the crowds-making this fearless extroverted child a little fearful, shy and insecure....something I am unfamiliar with for anyone that knows me.
PLEIN AIR EXPERIENCE in INDIA:
This situation had me making several quick sketches of places, with a pen or paint. There were a few times I did get some nice more finished plein air paintings of the Ganges River, when Tarun found a quiet place from the crowds. Even in these places we were still visited by the children, who were taunting goats that traveled with them, from a nearby tent community. Tarun discovered after several experiences of watching me plein air paint, my better paintings happened when I was mostly alone...to concentrate and relax. Tarun had also scheduled a safari, where I would paint on the back of a truck, but this was cancelled due to me leaving a week early.
I did have lots of studio times, where I could zen out and paint from my small sketches and phone photos. By the way,there is a plethora of things to paint in India if you are unfamiliar to its nuances. I was particularly fascinated with the temples, and animals in the streets, as well as the way people lived. Monks were everywhere, as I was in one of the holiest cities in the country. There were ceremonies and rituals unknown to us on this side of the planet. One day we had to take a long auto bus ride to a hillside and take an aerial tram or shuttle to the top of the mountain to visit the Chandi Devi Temple. Still many crowds and monkeys. If you stood too long in one place the monkeys would harass you. So Tarun talked to the workers there and they finagled a way for us to be in a place high up on the temple away from crowds and monkeys, with a screen for protection, and I painted the Ganges and Haridwar from a distance. It was absolutely beautiful and the breeze made it much more zenful. Every day we walked and travelled such distances, both with backpacks, and plenty of water. He would split the weight with me, I guess because I am a girl...lol, I am used to the weight but walking every day for two weeks, I welcomed this help.
Feeding a monkey
Away from the crowds and Monkeys at the Chandi Devi Temple
WHY I PAINT PLEIN AIR:
I travel to different places so I can experience a different life and be inspired by new and different cultures. I think it is one of the best life lessons for everyone to go outside your comfort zones, and stretch yourself.
I learned a chant while I was there, one we repeated daily. We had to repeat the sanskrit and the english version every morning.
Pronounced:
Sarve Bhavantu Sukhinaha
Sarve Suntu Niramaya
Save Bhadrani Pasynatu
Ma Kasat Duka Baiag Bhavet
Meaning:
May all be happy
May all be healthy
May all find auspicious
No one shall have a share in sorrow.
Tarun explained to me that ' may all find Auspicious' means may all find the 'good' in something possibly not so good- Finding of luck or fortune - something promising.
Many times he would come to the small studio I was designated and tell me how beautiful a painting was and ask where we were? I would tell him and show him the photo, and his reply " I walk by there everyday.. I have never seen it this way". I looked at him and said-"I found the auspicious". He smiled and realized we were teaching each other something. But that is the gift or the joy that comes from Plein Air painting -to show the auspicious in a place that many people may take for granted.
